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Complete Care Guides

Everything you need to know to keep your Ball Python or Boa Constrictor healthy, happy, and thriving. Built from 13+ years of hands-on experience.

Ball Python Care Boa Constrictor Care General Tips

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These guides are a great starting point, but every snake is unique. If you purchased from Elite Serpents, you have lifetime support—reach out anytime with questions or concerns. We're always happy to help!

Ball Python Care

Python regius - Complete care guide

Enclosure Setup

Enclosure Size

  • • Hatchlings/Juveniles: 20-gallon long or equivalent tub (30" x 12" x 12")
  • • Adults: 40-gallon breeder or 4' x 2' x 1' minimum
  • • Tip: Too large can stress hatchlings; upgrade as they grow

Substrate Options

  • • Best: Cypress mulch, coconut husk, or paper-based bedding
  • • Budget-friendly: Paper towels or newspaper (easy to clean)
  • • Avoid: Cedar, pine, sand, or corncob (respiratory/digestive issues)

Essential Furniture

  • • Two identical hides (warm side & cool side)
  • • Water bowl large enough to soak in
  • • Optional: climbing branches, fake plants for enrichment

Security

  • • Secure locking lid (ball pythons are escape artists!)
  • • Check for gaps regularly
  • • Clip locks recommended for glass tanks

Temperature & Humidity

Temperature Gradient

Warm Side: 88-92°F
Cool Side: 78-80°F
Basking Spot: 90-95°F

Humidity Levels

Normal: 50-60%
During Shed: 65-70%

Heating & Monitoring

  • • Heat Source: Under-tank heater (UTH) or ceramic heat emitter regulated by thermostat
  • • Never skip the thermostat: Prevents burns and maintains consistent temps
  • • Monitoring: Use digital thermometers on both sides + humidity gauge
  • • Night temps: Can drop to 72-75°F safely (no light needed at night)

Feeding Guide

Prey Size & Frequency

  • • Rule of thumb: Prey should be same width as snake's widest point
  • • Hatchlings: Hopper mice every 5-7 days
  • • Juveniles: Adult mice or small rats every 7-10 days
  • • Adults: Medium-large rats every 10-14 days

Best Practices

  • • Frozen/Thawed preferred: Safer for snake, more humane
  • • Thawing: Room temp or warm water, never microwave
  • • Separate feeding: Use feeding tub to reduce substrate ingestion
  • • After feeding: Leave alone 24-48 hours for digestion

What if My Ball Python Won't Eat?

Ball pythons are notorious for going off food. Common reasons:

  • • Shedding cycle (they often refuse 1-2 weeks before)
  • • Stress from handling, enclosure changes, or improper temps
  • • Breeding season (adult males may fast for months)
  • • Simply being picky (they can safely go weeks without food)

Don't panic! Monitor weight and behavior. Contact us if refusing for 6+ weeks or showing weight loss.

Handling & Behavior

Handling Tips

  • • Wait 5-7 days after bringing home before handling
  • • Handle 2-3 times per week for 10-15 minutes
  • • Support body, never grab by tail or head
  • • Wash hands before/after handling
  • • Avoid handling 48 hours after feeding

Temperament

  • • Generally docile and calm
  • • Defensive when young, mellows with age
  • • Defensive posture: ball up (hence the name!)
  • • Stress signs: hissing, striking, refusing food

Boa Constrictor Care

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Enclosure Setup

Enclosure Size

  • • Hatchlings/Juveniles: 20-30 gallon or equivalent (36" x 18" x 12")
  • • Sub-adults: 40-55 gallon (48" x 18" x 18")
  • • Adults: 6' x 2' x 2' minimum for females, 4' x 2' x 2' for males
  • • Note: Boas grow larger than ball pythons; plan ahead!

Substrate Options

  • • Best: Cypress mulch, coconut husk/fiber, or aspen shavings
  • • Budget: Newspaper or paper towels (especially for quarantine)
  • • Avoid: Cedar, pine (toxic oils), sand, or gravel

Essential Furniture

  • • Large hide boxes on warm and cool sides
  • • Heavy water bowl (large enough to soak in)
  • • Sturdy climbing branches (boas love to climb!)
  • • Optional: cork bark, fake plants for enrichment

Important Notes

  • • Boas are strong—secure all furniture with weight or anchors
  • • Heavy locking lid essential (they push hard)
  • • Adequate ventilation prevents respiratory issues

Temperature & Humidity

Temperature Gradient

Warm Side: 85-90°F
Cool Side: 75-80°F
Basking Spot: 90-95°F

Humidity Levels

Normal: 60-70%
During Shed: 70-80%

Heating & Monitoring

  • • Heat Source: Under-tank heater, heat tape, or radiant heat panel with thermostat
  • • Basking spot: Ceramic heat emitter or halogen bulb (no light at night)
  • • Always use thermostat: Prevents overheating and burns
  • • Monitoring: Multiple thermometers + hygrometer for accuracy
  • • Night drop: 70-75°F is safe and natural

Feeding Guide

Prey Size & Frequency

  • • Rule: Prey width = 1-1.5x snake's widest point
  • • Hatchlings: Hopper mice every 5-7 days
  • • Juveniles: Large mice or small rats every 7-10 days
  • • Sub-adults: Medium rats every 10-14 days
  • • Adults: Large-jumbo rats every 14-21 days

Feeding Best Practices

  • • Frozen/Thawed: Safest option (live prey can injure boas)
  • • Thaw safely: Warm water bath or room temp overnight
  • • Feed consistency: Same day/time weekly reduces stress
  • • Post-feeding: No handling for 48-72 hours

Feeding Tips for Success

  • • Strong eaters: Boas typically have excellent feeding responses
  • • Power feeders: Use tongs to prevent accidental strikes to hand
  • • Growth rate: Boas grow fast—adjust prey size every 2-3 months
  • • Don't overfeed: Obesity is common in captive boas; monitor weight

Handling & Behavior

Handling Guidelines

  • • Wait 7 days after bringing home before handling
  • • Handle 2-3 times weekly for 15-20 minutes
  • • Support body at multiple points (they're heavy!)
  • • Wash hands before/after (prevents disease, removes food scent)
  • • Adults: May need two people for safe handling

Typical Behavior

  • • Generally calm and curious
  • • More active than ball pythons
  • • Defensive when young, mellow with regular handling
  • • Hissing/striking means stressed—give space
  • • Strong grip—don't panic if they wrap around arm

Pro Tip: Reading Your Boa

Learn your boa's body language. A relaxed boa will move smoothly and explore calmly. Signs of stress include rapid tongue flicking, S-curved posture, hissing, or attempting to flee. If your boa shows these signs, end the handling session and give them time to settle.

General Care Tips

Universal advice that applies to both Ball Pythons and Boa Constrictors

Health Monitoring

  • Weekly checks: Eyes clear, no retained shed, active behavior
  • Weight tracking: Weigh monthly to monitor growth/health
  • Watch for mites: Tiny black/red dots, excessive soaking
  • Respiratory signs: Wheezing, mucus, open-mouth breathing

Shedding Cycle

  • Pre-shed signs: Dull color, cloudy eyes, reduced activity
  • Increase humidity: 65-80% helps ensure clean shed
  • No handling: Leave alone during blue phase and shedding
  • Complete shed: Should come off in one piece, check eyes/tail

Quarantine New Snakes

  • Separate room: Keep new snakes isolated for 90 days
  • Simple setup: Paper substrate, basic hides, easy to clean
  • Handle last: Care for established collection first
  • Watch for issues: Mites, respiratory, parasites, feeding problems

Cleaning Schedule

  • Daily: Spot clean feces, remove uneaten food, refill water
  • Weekly: Clean water bowl, inspect all areas
  • Monthly: Replace substrate, deep clean enclosure
  • Disinfect: Use reptile-safe cleaner (diluted bleach or F10)

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Overhandling: Especially when new or stressed
  • Wrong temps: Always use thermostat, verify with thermometer
  • Cohabitation: Never house snakes together (stress/cannibalism)
  • Inappropriate prey: Too large causes regurgitation/death

Emergency Preparedness

  • Find vet early: Locate reptile vet before emergency
  • Backup heat: Heat packs, secondary heat source for power outages
  • Transport bin: Secure container with ventilation for vet visits
  • Contact us: Elite Serpents customers have lifetime support!

When to See a Vet Immediately

  • • Open-mouth breathing or wheezing
  • • Regurgitation (different from refusing food)
  • • Blood in stool or vomit
  • • Severe lethargy or unresponsiveness
  • • Injury from live prey or escape attempt
  • • Kinked spine or neurological symptoms
  • • Rapid unexplained weight loss
  • • Swelling, lumps, or discharge

Still Have Questions?

These guides cover the basics, but every snake is unique. Whether you purchased from Elite Serpents or not, we're happy to help answer your reptile care questions.

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